Sixty seconds with Sam Plunkett on Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most ‘international’ varieties and is grown across a vast range of climates and soils around the world.
Cabernet Sauvignon’s general flavour profile is one of black currant flavours with some vegetal notes and plenty of grippy, grainy tannin.

Q. What makes a great Cabernet Sauvignon and who are the stand outs, internationally and at home?

"Bordeaux in France is the ‘spiritual’ home of Cabernet Sauvignon. Bordeaux is relatively flat and has gravelly, low fertility soil and a temperate climate. It also has a high degree of humidity generated by the Atlantic Ocean.

For me, what makes a great Cabernet Sauvignon stand above a good one is its ability to improve with age and Bordeaux wines will live for decades.
Closer to home, inland Coonawarra with its Terra Rossa soil would lay claim to the best Cabernet Sauvignon in Australia. There are also some outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon based wines to be found in the coastal area of the Margaret River region of Western Australia."

Q. Is our soil suited to Cabernet Sauvignon and what influence does climate have?

"Yes, but climate is the single most important driver in determining wine style and quality – even ahead of soil. Sunshine and rainfall have big effects on the Cabernet Sauvignon flavour.

It’s a little simplistic but the general rule is the higher the temperature the bolder the fruit flavours become, ranging from vegetal, to red fruits, through to cooked fruits.

While the Cabernet Sauvignon grape is pretty resistant to rot, the wetter and gloomier it is (usually there is less sunshine in wet years) the paler it is in colour and the more dilute and vegetal the flavours become.

Most of the last decade has been increasingly hot and as a result our Cabernet Sauvignons have exhibited more rich and ripe fruit. However 2011 was the wettest year on record and with the effects of climate change it will be interesting to see what the future holds."

Q. Why was Cabernet Sauvignon planted in the Strathbogie region in the first place?

"In the mid 1970s a man called Peter Tisdall decided that the Strathbogie Ranges was the ideal place to grow Cabernet Sauvignon. He compared it favourably to Bordeaux and despite our region being very different to our French friends he purchased and developed Mt Helen Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards.  

However, I think the real reason Cabernet Sauvignon was planted was that 20 years ago there weren’t really many varieties to choose from. There were perhaps half a dozen ‘noble’ red varieties, with Cabernet Sauvignon the most noble and in strong demand. I think producers planted what they thought people wanted to drink – and there is nothing wrong with that!"

Q. What were the best vintages of all time?

"1987, 1991, 1998, 2004, 2008, 2010 (2010 would be up there with 2004)."